![]() FYI, we do have rebuilt units in stock for all the first and second gen cars, and the er's price is 34.95 each exchange for the non turbos, and 44.95 each/exchange for the turbos. This is not good for any engine, and in the case of injected z's, you should then replace the auxiliary air regulator, otherwise known as an aar valve. ![]() If the engine doesn't have a cold fast idle, then the idle will of course be low, and a lot of times the rpm will pulsate. The idle speed will gradually come down over a few minutes of running. When you first start an injected z or zx, the rpm should be 1200 to 2200 depending on the ambient air temperature. One reason may be your rpm on a cold start. Your vacuum is a little low for cold start, but it's ok. I read in Haynes manual that normal idle speed should be 750 when the car is in neutral, but mine is close to 1000. In neutral (park) it idles usually almost near 1000, sometimes at 1000. When the car is fully warmed up and in gear it idles around 750 rpm or a little above. The turbos don't have an idle adjustment screw like the non turbos, but there is a throttle linkage stop on the throttle body that has an 8 mm locknut on it, and you can adjust that to raise your idle speed. Ukrainian102 said: I have a 95 with 7AFE and 4spd auto. Running them at 800 can cause some driveability issues on all models. I've found that 900 to 950 works much better on all injected cars.
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